Claire Choisne, the creative director at Boucheron, stands out as an artistic innovator, constantly redefining the world of high jewellery. Her latest project, the Carte Blanche Or Bleu collection, showcases her unique vision and mastery. Known for challenging traditional design and broadening perceptions of high jewellery, Choisne uses the Or Bleu collection to capture the dynamic beauty of water, drawing inspiration from her travels to Iceland’s dramatic landscapes.
Water as a Muse and Metaphor
Water serves as the core theme of Or Bleu, which Choisne envisions as both a precious natural element and a force of transformation. She explains her choice of the collection’s name: “I chose to call it or [gold] to draw a link between the preciousness of gold and that of water,” she shares. “I chose the adjective bleu [blue] to echo the colour of water.” Departing from the usual depiction of clear, calm waters, Choisne’s designs draw from the raw, untamed Icelandic fjords she encountered on her 2022 visit. “I wanted to offer new inspiration, new breath, new vision and carry a message for future generations,” she reflects. “Or Bleu is an ode to the memory of water…I wanted to talk about living, powerful water, which brings life and transforms the landscapes around it.”
Masterpieces Inspired by Icelandic Waters
To embody water in its many forms, Choisne selected precious stones that capture Iceland’s natural beauty. Diamonds, rock crystals, and shades of white, black, and transparent materials evoke water’s fluidity and depth. Aquamarine’s unique blue hue became central in the design of the Cristaux necklace, one of the collection’s standout pieces. “The blue of Icelandic glaciers inspired me to design the Christaux necklace. I decided to use a set of 24 aquamarines because their shade of blue was stunning – and the quality, colour and size of each aquamarine were almost identical, making this necklace a masterpiece of the collection. The necklace is also in the tradition of multi-wear, as the central diamond can be detached to be worn as a ring.”
Celebrating Multi-Wear Versatility in High Jewellery
Versatility is a defining aspect of Boucheron’s approach, allowing wearers to adapt each piece to different occasions. “This year, four pieces are in the tradition of multiwear,” Choisne explains. Notably, the Cascade necklace offers six distinct styles, and the Vague earrings are also convertible into a brooch. The 148 cm Cascade necklace, adorned with over 1,800 diamonds, showcases Boucheron’s love for bold designs and body jewellery. This piece required approximately 3,000 hours of meticulous work in the atelier. “The necklace is set in a single articulated row to give it a beautiful suppleness and strikingly realistic fall,” Choisne says, emphasizing the artistic flexibility in her work. The Eau Vive shoulder brooch is another impressive design, with sculptural forms set in palladium and aluminum, adorned with shimmering diamonds.
A Sensory Exhibition in Beijing
In October, Boucheron unveiled the Carte Blanche Or Bleu collection in Beijing, with 26 stunning pieces on display. The setting blended Choisne’s jewellery with mesmerizing visuals of Icelandic landscapes captured by photographer Jan Erik Waider, and immersive soundscapes created by musician Molécule. Waves and water sounds added depth to the experience, allowing viewers to connect deeply with the spirit of Iceland. “I wanted to create an environment where the jewellery and nature speak to each other,” Choisne explains. A short documentary also played at the exhibition, showcasing the rugged beauty of Iceland and the creative journey behind Or Bleu.
A Legacy of Creative Freedom at Boucheron
While Choisne’s designs might seem unconventional for a maison established in 1858, they’re aligned with the philosophy of Frédéric Boucheron, who believed in the “freedom to create transcends all.” The Carte Blanche collections, which offer Boucheron’s creative directors unrestricted freedom, embody this spirit. Choisne’s work with Or Bleu not only pushes the boundaries of design but also encapsulates Boucheron’s dedication to innovation, artistry, and a profound appreciation for nature.
