Weddings are a sensitive yet exciting subject (especially for the women) which, like every other cultural element has evolved graciously over the period of time, with respect to the rich Indian history, its cultures and traditions. The extravagant preparations that go into it, from deciding the venue to choosing the right date and to choosing the right bridal wear, weddings are elaborate events that mark the biggest day of the groom and bride’s lives. However, while choosing the right bridal wear is one of top most priorities for a new couple, not a lot of people know how the concept of bridal wear came into the existence.
History of Indian bridal wear
The concept of Indian bridal wear, while initially adapted from the Western culture where the woman who was getting married would wear white to their weddings to symbolise purity, has its origins that can be traced back to ancient India. It has had a rich cultural history that spans across over a thousand years and is largely intertwined with India’s religious and social traditions.
Vedic period
The earliest records of the Indian bridal wear were noted in the vedic period when the weddings were largely religious ceremonies where the brides were recorded to be wearing traditional dresses in vibrant colors that were made of silk or cotton. During this period, brides dressed quite modestly for her wedding and preferred covering herself in simple but beautiful costumes produced out of hand spun pieces of clothe like cotton and silk. More than often the Indian bridal wear had been noted to be in red color since red symbolizes fertility and prosperity.
Several texts like Ramayana and Mahabharata have described brides in elaborate attires and ornaments and jewelleries, which have remained constant across the generations. However, the clothing styles and attires have greatly varied depending on the regional diversity and social status of the people across the nation.
Talking about the significance of bridal wear in the Indian cultural context, Mrs. Anita Katti, Founder of Mandakini stated, “In vibrant Indian wedding textiles, the bride’s dresses have a deep cultural significance, symbolizing tradition, region and individual identity each state of India weaves unique bridal wear, heritage and artistic details.”
Golden Age
With the changing time, the bridal attire also greatly evolved, for instance, in the Golden Age of India during the Gupta Empire, art, culture and fashion had begun to flourish in the country. Brides who belonged to affluent families exclusively began wearing intricate silk sarees. These sarees were initially seen in the Indus Valley Civilisation when they were worn as loincloths by women. This six-yard clothing has had its origins traced back to the aforementioned Indian epics which were written even before the first civilisation. However, with the onset of Golden Age, these sarees came to be adorned with gold thread and elaborate jewellery, which significantly differentiated between the societal status of the women wearing them.
With the rise of regional kingdoms, the attire gradually grew more diverse and reflective of the local customs and traditions. The use of rich fabrics, embroidery, and embellishments became more pronounced.
Later, sarees took their complete forms only after the Mughal era which introduced a new variety of styles and fabrics blending Indian influences with Persian. During the Mughal period, a clear contrast was drawn between the Hindu and the Muslim women in terms of how they adorned themselves. Bridal wear became even more luxurious during this period where the clothes featured heavy embroidery and intricate designs. The gold and silver thread work on the garments began to be the hallmark of bridal attire.
British colonial era
Gradually, with the downfall of the mughal empire and the onset of the British colonial rule in India, a western influence spread across the nation but the bridal attire remained largely unchanged. Nonetheless, regional variations to these continued to take place. While Sarees and Lehenga cholis remained the most common bridal outfits with slight alterations in their designing processes, each region developed its own unique style and fabric preferences.
For instance, as Anita mentioned, “Handcrafted Kanchipuram sacred silk sarees from Tamil Nadu were unique in their exquisite textures and intricate patterns. Often adorned with sacred gold zari, they added to the richness and auspiciousness of these sarees which is appreciated in their durability and imaginative craftsmanship. This made them the quintessential choice for South Indian brides. Another example, Karnataka ‘s pure cotton silk sarees were perfectly valued for their comfort.”
“They also came to be known for their unique pallu designs. Usually made with traditional patterns and vibrant colours, these sarees reflected the simplicity and elegance of North Karnataka cultural rituals. Both Kanchipuram and Ilkal Sarees were not just garments but heritage items, which have been passed down through generations preserving the rich textile heritage of India. The use of pure zari in these sarees enhanced their aesthetics, adding a touch of grandeur and divinity, making the bridal party a beautiful blend of tradition, craftsmanship and regional pride,” She concluded
Agreeing with Mrs Anita, Ms Pooja Choudhary, Founder, Lavanya The Label added that there have always been different types of bridal wear for different parts of India because of the diverse Indian culture and tradition. “I have been lucky to delve into these various cultures, and it is quite interesting how bridal attire preserves the spirit of the particular area’s values, legends, and craftsmanship.”
Also read: Radhika Merchant’s Floral Dupatta Sparks Buzz Ahead of Wedding with Anant Ambani
Modern India
Things began to change with the beginning of what we know as, Modern India in the twentieth century. The bridal fashion began to be largely influenced by the ideas of the west due to globalisation and the booming film and fashion industry.
As Bollywood began to grow rapidly, films began popularizing certain styles, fabrics and colors that were in contrast to the traditional attires and brought in fairly new and unique changes to the bridal wear, eventually influencing the bridal trends across the nation.
The rise of Bollywood also resulted in the rapid growth of the fashion industry with the continuously increasing demands of new and unique style. Fashion designers Sabyasachi Mukherjee, Manish Malhotra, and Anita Dongre played a significant role in shaping contemporary bridal wear, blending traditional and modern elements.
Today, the bridal wear in India has turned out to be a blend of its tradition and modernity. While most brides still opt for the traditional red Sarees and Lehengas adorned with intricate embroidery and embellishments. Some prefer fusion outfits which combines the Western and Indian influences such as gown-style lehengas or sarees with modern cuts. A third and emerging trend that Modern bridal wear is currently witnessing includes sustainable fashion with brides choosing eco-friendly fabrics, supporting the local artisans.
Region-wise bridal wear
Pooja further elaborated on the different bridal attires that are worn in different parts of the country and have become a part of India’s rich culture today. She stated, “In the states of Punjab and Uttar Pradesh, the bride dresses herself up in lehenga or sharara designed with rich embroidery. The clothes worn by the bride and the groom are often lavishly designed and decked up with zari work, sequins, and beads, which symbolise the royal feel of the northern marriage ceremony. The most significant one is the red or maroon lehenga that symbolises richness, fertility and love.”
While talking about the western region of India particularly the Gujarat and Rajasthan, she added that the typical bridal dress is the ghagra choli with a richly decorated dupatta. Zari- work and Bandhani- work are touchstones of the features of these ensembles representing joy and festivity. The vivid hues and embellishments are not only beautiful to behold, but they also represent the essence of festivities.
“The bride dress code is dominated by the saree in the eastern states of West Bengal and Odisha; red and white sarees with red borders are preferred. For example, the typical Bengali bride covers herself with a Banarasi saree, which is renowned for its fine texture and gold embroidery. Wearing this attire, the bride looks chaste, like a goddess and the clothes signify cleanliness and blessings marking the start of a wedded life,” she mentioned. ” While the southern part of India inherits a different approach with the Kanjeevaram saree especially from Tamil Nadu and Karnataka regions. ”
She lastly added, “The bridal attires in the northeastern region of India are particularly diverse and different due to the various tribes of the region. For instance, the Mekhela Chador is a traditional attire that you will see most Assamese brides wear having rich handwoven silk and gold work. This traditional wear symbolises elegance, propriety, and spirituality and an attachment to the earth and heritage.”
The different types of bridal dresses that are worn in India provide insights as to how the country is culturally diverse and the creativity of the Indian designers. Every piece has its narrative which gives details of people’s culture and traditions particular to their area. The transformation in the global fashion trends, particularly over the last few decades, has introduced an amalgamation of the contemporary and the more appropriate and sustainable features of the past. Today, Brides focus on choices – from a stunning red lehenga to a modern gown, which would depict their personalities. This journey of wedding outfits shows that the fashion of Indian bridal wear is not stagnant and has been evolving constantly.
