From Tokyo to Paris Olympics: The Evolution of Sport Climbing

Sports climbing, which had made its Olympic debut at the Tokyo Games in 2021, was initially introduced at the Beunos Aires Youth Olympic games in 2018. This inclusion that was done alongside skateboarding and surfing, was part of the International Olympic Committee’s strategy to modernize the Olympic program and engage a younger audience. Sport climbing’s popularity and relevance have ensured its continued presence, with the discipline set to feature in the Los Angeles 2028 Summer Olympics.

The Structure of Olympic Sport Climbing

Bouldering, lead climbing, and speed climbing are the three separate Olympic sport climbing disciplines.

Bouldering: In this sport, competitors use no ropes to climb a 4.5-meter (15-foot) wall in a set amount of time, with the goal of finishing in the fewest attempts possible.

Lead: Climbers have six minutes to go as high as they can on a 15-meter (almost 50-foot) wall in only one try.

Speed: Competitors will race one another up a 15-meter wall that is inclined five degrees. The fastest male climbers in the world can finish in less than six seconds, and the fastest female climbers frequently finish in less than seven seconds.

The inclusion of speed climbing as a separate event at the Paris 2024 Olympics is a big development that will free up athletes to focus on their areas of expertise. Lead climbing and bouldering will continue to be integrated.

New Paris 2024 Scoring Scheme

The Tokyo 2024 scoring system has been modified for the Paris 2024 Games. The total score was previously calculated by multiplying the results from each discipline. The combined bouldering and lead competitions will now employ a new scoring system with a maximum of 200 points, with speed climbing becoming a separate event.\

Bouldering: Points are awarded as climbers progress through various zones on the wall (5 points for the low zone, 10 points for the high zone) and for reaching the top hold (25 points). Points are deducted for each failed attempt, with a perfect round of flashing four boulder problems worth 100 points.
Lead: Athletes score points by successfully holding up to 40 holds, with the point value increasing for higher holds. If a climber moves towards a hold but does not secure it, they receive 0.1 points on top of their previous score.

Competition Format and Participants

In the combined bouldering/lead event, 20 men and 20 women will compete. In speed climbing, there will be 14 competitors for both men and women. Each climber will perform two speed runs on different walls, and their fastest time will determine their ranking and matchups for the elimination rounds.

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Top Athletes to Watch at the 2024 Paris Olympics

Team USA:

Sam Watson: The 18-year-old speed climber holds the men’s world record with a time of 4.79 seconds. Watson ended 2023 ranked eighth globally in men’s speed and won gold at the Pan American Games in Santiago last year.
Natalia Grossman: Ranked No. 1 in women’s bouldering in 2023, Grossman also secured fifth place in the combined bouldering and lead category. She won gold in both disciplines at the Pan American Games.
Brooke Raboutou: Having finished fifth in Tokyo, Raboutou, the daughter of climbing world champions Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou and Didier Raboutou, is a strong contender. Fluent in French, she brings a unique heritage and skillset to the competition.

International Stars:

Janja Garnbret (Slovenia): The reigning women’s gold medalist in lead/bouldering is set to defend her title in Paris.
Aleksandra Miroslaw (Poland): A formidable competitor in women’s speed climbing.
Ai Mori (Japan): A leading force in women’s bouldering and lead climbing.
Rahmad Adi Mulyono and Veddriq Leonardo (Indonesia): Top contenders in men’s speed climbing, expected to challenge Watson.
Jakob Schubert (Australia): A four-time world champion, Schubert is a strong contender in men’s lead/bouldering.