In the vast expanse of the Pacific Ocean, approximately 100 miles from Tonga, the winds began to intensify. Ivanancy Vunikura, a seasoned sail master, found herself at the helm of the Uto ni Yalo, a vessel that had embarked on a journey from Fiji days earlier. As the waves swelled to heights of four meters and the winds surged to 25 to 30 knots, the voyage became increasingly challenging. “The weather completely changed; the waves went up to four-metre swells and the wind went up to 25 to 30 knots. It was not easy sailing against the direction of the wind,” Vunikura recalls.
A Symbolic Journey for the Pacific Region
After seven arduous days at sea, the Uto ni Yalo arrived in Nuku’alofa, the capital of Tonga, just in time for the Pacific Island Forum leaders’ summit. The vessel, a blend of traditional and modern Pacific boat designs, carried a deeper significance beyond its physical journey. It symbolized the unity of the Pacific region, with the crew aiming to connect with leaders at the summit and launch a project to share traditional boating skills and knowledge with Tongan communities.
Vunikura’s role in this voyage was historic. As one of two sail masters on the Uto ni Yalo, she became the first Fijian woman to hold such a position. In her role, she worked closely with the captain, showcasing her expertise in navigation, understanding winds and currents, and managing the sails to power the vessel. “We need more female sailors; there was an all-female crew that sailed from New Zealand to Tonga not long ago; it is beautiful to watch that, and sailing can be challenging, but we need to encourage women to partake,” she emphasizes.
Overcoming Challenges and Inspiring Others
Affectionately known as “Mama Uto” by the crew, Vunikura faced the challenge of leading what she describes as “one of the hardest voyages” she had ever undertaken. Despite her 12 years of sailing experience, she felt the weight of responsibility, recognizing the legacy she was carrying forward. “I was emotional because you are being handed a responsibility that our forefathers once held; they navigated using the stars, the moon, and traditional knowledge … it was still a great honour,” she reflects.
In Fiji, where men traditionally dominate the sail master role, Vunikura had to earn the trust of her colleagues. “There were still some men that doubted my capabilities … I’m so happy they get to see that we can do it too,” she says, highlighting the gender dynamics she navigated alongside the seas. Her performance during the voyage left a strong impression on her crew members. “She was an inspiration; in her manner, her antics, the way she ran her watch, I feel privileged to have had her on what I hope is my first international voyage with the Uto ni Yalo,” remarks crew member Ian Chute.
A Passion for the Ocean and Tradition
Beyond her prowess as a sail master, Vunikura is known for her lively spirit. Chute fondly recalls how she would keep everyone entertained, even during the toughest moments of the journey. “Even in the teeth of a gale, she has time for a hula,” he adds, highlighting her ability to bring lightness to the crew.
Vunikura’s journey to becoming a voyager was anything but conventional. With no formal sailing training, she was introduced to the Uto ni Yalo by a friend. Over time, she overcame her initial seasickness and realized that the ocean was where she belonged. “I just love the ocean. I know it can also be scary, but I’m in love with the peaceful feeling of just being out in the ocean,” she says, expressing her deep connection to the sea.
Preserving Tradition and Empowering Women
As the crew prepares to spend time in Vava’u, Tonga, teaching local communities to sail, build canoes, and travel sustainably between islands, Vunikura is focused on the broader mission of her voyage. She is committed to preserving Indigenous knowledge of navigation and voyaging while also encouraging more women to participate in this traditionally male-dominated field. “That is why I’m here, trying to pass down the knowledge and teach young female sailors to come out; the ocean is a beautiful place to be,” she concludes.
Vunikura and her crew are expected to begin their return journey to Fiji in late September, continuing their efforts to keep the spirit of traditional Pacific voyaging alive, while charting a course for future generations of female sailors.
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