A groundbreaking achievement in gemstone production has emerged from the University of the West of England (UWE) in Bristol, where lecturer Sofie Boons has successfully grown a full-size ruby embedded in a platinum jewellery setting. This innovative process is believed to be a world-first, utilizing a unique chemical technique that enables the growth of the gem while it remains in its setting.
Revolutionary “In Situ Process”
Sofie Boons, a senior lecturer and researcher in jewellery design, initiated her project using a small ruby fragment, or “seed,” sourced from waste gemstone offcuts. By placing this seed in a platinum ring and employing a chemical agent known as “flux,” Boons was able to lower the temperature to facilitate the growth of the ruby. This method allows the gem to develop directly within its setting, which UWE asserts has not been successfully accomplished before.
Sustainable Gemstone Production
Unlike traditional gemstones, which are often energy-intensive to produce or sourced unsustainably through mining, Boons’ technique offers a more sustainable alternative. The growth process occurs in a furnace and takes only days, requiring just five hours of energy to develop the ruby. “I am experimenting growing them inside the furnace for between five and 50 hours,” said Boons, noting that longer growth times result in cleaner and larger crystals.
Challenging Perceptions of Man-Made Gemstones
Boons emphasized that her method challenges the perception of lab-grown gemstones as synthetic. She explained, “The slightly unpredictable growth features natural facets, and this I find fascinating as a jewellery maker.” This new perspective could reshape how consumers view the value of lab-grown gemstones, offering a more affordable and environmentally friendly alternative to mined stones.
Collaboration and Future Research
The project, which is part of Boons’ PhD, has garnered additional funding from UWE and is set to expand with the involvement of the University of Bristol. This collaboration will broaden the research to include other types of gemstones, potentially revolutionizing the jewellery industry and paving the way for more sustainable practices.
Rebecca Enderby, a contemporary jewellery designer based in Bristol, noted the changing perceptions surrounding lab-grown gemstones. “These lab-grown gemstones are not artificial,” she stated. “They mimic what grows over thousands of years in the earth, so they are a more affordable alternative to mined stones.”
Enderby also highlighted the importance of using green energy sources in the production of these gems, pointing out that while lab-grown gemstones are more environmentally sound, the energy used in their creation should ideally come from sustainable providers.
(INCLUDES INPUTS FROM ONLINE SOURCES)
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